On the pages that follow, are solutions to small problems that plague every household. The solutions are simple and easy to accomplish. And the tools and supplies they require, for the most part, are ones that you have on hand. Also included is a segment for the more ambitious on painting both the interior and exterior of a house. On the other hand, if you would like us to have a professional contact you, please leave us your name, e-mail address, and phone number, and we will have one call you.
Soiled - Rent a heavy duty electric shampooer
from your supermarket or hardware store to shampoo wall-to-wall carpet. These
machines have special devices that control and prevent the soaking of the
surface of your carpet, eliminating the possibility of shrinkage, and they do an
effective job. Use the cleaner indicated and mix according to instructions. Make
overlapping strokes with the machine over all of the carpet. The foam cleaning
action that this produces will ensure even coverage. When the carpet dries,
vacuum the carpet. Do not put the furniture back in place until the carpet
fibers have fully dried.
Animal Stains - Mix one cup of water with a teaspoon of white vinegar. Apply the solution to the stain. Allow it to remain on the stain for fifteen minutes. Blot the excess moisture. Then wash the stain with mild warm soapy water - sponge with cold water - blot dry using paper towels or an absorbent terry cloth.
Grease - First try warm soapy water, but if the stain is stubborn, an all purpose liquid cleaner will remove it. Follow the instructions on the label.
Nail Polish - If you catch the spill immediately nail polish can be wiped away using a mild detergent and water. Don't use nail polish remover; it will dissolve polyester fibers. A professional rug cleaner is required if the spill has set.
Burn Marks - If it is a small surface
with only the tips of the fiber scorched, rub the surface with a clean, fine
steel wool pad carefully removing the scorched portion. You'll need a vacuum to
pick up the dust that accumulates.
If the burn is deep and you have a matching leftover carpet remnant, an
almost invisible patch is possible on a shag or sculptured carpet. It will not
work as well on velvet cut or smooth cut carpet. With a sharp cutting tool, cut
a clean square around the burn mark. Remove the square with the burn. Cut a
patch the same size from the carpet remnant. Using a carpet adhesive, apply a
thin coat to the underside and the raw edges of the carpet on the floor. Press
the patch in place. The weight of a few books placed on the patch will ensure a
strong bond. Make certain that you do not use too much adhesive on the edges of
the patch - you won't want it to ooze on to the adjacent carpet fibers.
A typewriter eraser will clean dull or stained grouting between ceramic tiles - just rub and erase the dirt.
Loose Wall or Counter Tile - Carefully remove the loose tile. Scrape the adhesive from the back of the tile or scrub with steel wool. Remove the adhesive left in the space on the wall or the counter top. Use a tile adhesive (available at the hardware store) to re-glue the tile. Apply a thin even coat to the back of the tile and to the wall or counter surface. For a strong long lasting bond, score the glue covered surfaces of the tile and the wall or counter surface, using a fork. The roughened surface will ensure a firm hold. Put the tile in place and hold in place for a few minutes exerting light pressure on the wall, or weighing it down with books on a counter top. When dry, trim any excess adhesive. Use tile grout or mildew resistant grout to fill the joint
For squeaky floor boards, buy some powered graphite in a squeeze tube and force the powder between the two floor boards - use a putty knife if necessary. Squeaks can be temporarily quieted with liquid soap - pour some between the floor boards and when it dries the squeak will be gone.
| Touch-Ups | Patching |
| Odor | Baseboard Moldings |
| Fences | |
|
INTERIOR PAINTING TIPS |
|
| With A Brush | With A Roller |
| EXTERIOR PAINTING TIPS | |
| Peeling | Mildew |
| Blistering | Flaking |
| Alligator Cracking | Wood Staining |
| GENERIC PAINTING TIPS & OTHER POINTERS | |
| Porch Floor | Porch Steps |
| Trim | Areas to Investigate & Repair |
| Estimating (How much paint) | |
Touch-ups - Your walls are in good clean conditions, but frequently washed areas around light switches, on doors, etc., are rubbed bare. Here's a quick easy solutions, if like most of us, you originally saved some of the leftover paint and it was water-based. You'll need a new sponge - an old one may contain soap file or other residue - and rubber gloves. Make certain that the area to be touched-up is free of soil. Then soften the new sponge by dipping it in water. Wring it out well, then dip it in the leftover matching paint. Start in the center of the base spot using a circular motion as if you were washing the area. Use just enough paint to cover the spot. Continue the circling motion spreading the paint and feathering it out until it meets and thins sufficiently to blend with the surrounding area.
Patching - Mix spackling compound with
matching leftover paint instead of water. For small and inconspicuous jobs this
works well and eliminates the need to paint after the patching is done.
Toothpaste (white) can be used instead of spackle to fill small holes. Make
certain that it is completely dry before you paint over it.
Odor - Can't stand the smell of paint? Add a little vanilla flavoring - it will eliminate the odor.
Baseboard Moldings - This will save you time and grief in a room that is carpeted wall-to-wall. You'll need old newspapers and masking tape. Spread the newspaper on the rug about an inch from the wall - around the room. Use workable lengths of masking tape. Tuck it down over the carpet pile, where the edge of the carpet and the molding meet. Attach the other edge of the tape to the newspaper and continue around the room. Now, paint the molding. When it's completely dry remove the tape and the newspaper. This tip has an added bonus, you'll find that the tape has picked up the dust missed by your vacuum where your carpet meets the walls.
Fences - Painting a picket fence? Use a roller. It covers completely and speeds up the job.
With a Brush - Experts agree best
results are achieved using a high quality brush - one that has both long and
short bristles tapered to a serviceable edge. The best brush bristles have
natural split ends or may have commercially split tips that grab and hold the
paint.
Natural bristle brushes can be used on any surface with any type of paint.
Nylon bristles are superior to natural bristles only when applying latex or
waterbase paints. They cannot be used to apply shellac.
You will need several brushes - a wide brush for large flat surfaces, a 2"
trim brush and a 1 1/2 " sash brush. A small round brush is often useful for
hard to reach spots.
Do the ceiling first. Applying the paint with a roller is recommended. See
instructions that follow under Painting - With a Roller.
Use your wide brush for the flat wall surfaces. Dip the brush into the paint
- just cover 1/3 of the bristles' length. To rid the brush of excess paint, tap
it lightly, do not draw the brush over the rim of the can. Light long strokes
will provide the best finish. To cover all bristle marks, first brush up, then
down, then across, then up and down once more. Work from the ceiling down.
To paint window trim, use a 1 1/2 " tapered sash brush. Paint crossbars
first, then frames and finally the sills.
With a Roller - Rollers are made of
synthetic fibers or wool. Short pile rollers are for smooth surfaces. Deep or
heavy pile rollers are for rougher uneven surfaces.
You will need a 9" roller, a pan and a 2" brush. An extension handle for
your roller is a good investment if you intend to paint ceilings.
Before you start, make certain that walls are free of soil and that all
cracks are patched and fully dry.
Paint ceilings first. Using the 2" brush, paint a border on ceiling when it
meets the walls - all around the room. Next cover your roller evenly with
paint. Remove the excess by rolling it back and forth in the tray. Roll the
paint on the ceiling in 2' x 3' sections. To avoid splatters roll slowly - do
not roll rapidly. For the best results, form an "x" in each section using two
straight diagonal strokes with the roller. Spread the paint using long light
strokes blending each stroke into the wet area of the previous sections.
Continue in this manner until the ceiling is complete.
Now for the walls, use your 2" brush again. Paint a border on the walls, where they meet the ceiling - all around the room. Do likewise above the baseboard trim and around windows and doors. Roll the paint on the walls in sections as you did the ceiling. Finish up with light vertical strokes. Do not spread the paint too thin.
Paint windows and trim using a 1 1/2" tapered brush - crossbars first, then the frames and finally the sills.
Check the exterior surfaces of the house carefully before you buy paint or do anything else. If any of the following problems exist they will reoccur if not corrected first.
Peeling - This usually occurs on protected
surfaces such as overhangs and porch ceilings. Chemical salts that were not
washed off the old surface before it was repainted are usually the cause of
peeling, or it may be the result of painting over a glossy surface.
Solution: Old paint must be scraped off and the surface sanded
thoroughly. Wash surface with a phosphate-based detergent. Rinse thoroughly.
Let dry. A primer may be necessary - this depends on the type of paint you
select - check the label.
Mildew - is a fungus growth caused by high humidity and
temperature. If it
is not removed prior to painting, it will grow through the new paint.
Solution: Mix a solution of one part bleach and four parts water. Scrub
the surface thoroughly to remove all mildew. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to
protect your hands. Hose surface down. Let dry.
Blistering - is usually a twofold problem
caused by moisture trapped in the siding which pushes the paint away from the
surface. It may be a sign that there is a leak in the roof, eaves or the
plumbing. Lack of ventilation in the kitchen and/or bathrooms could also be a
cause.
Solution: Find the source of the moisture and correct that problem first.
Then scrape the blistered area down to stable paint or wood. Sand the surface. A
primer may be necessary before you paint - this depends on the paint you select
- check the label.
Flaking - usually occurs after peeling or
blistering, with the paint breaking completely away from the siding.
Solution: Follow the steps given for Blistering.
Alligator Cracking - If the
siding is plywood or masonry, the problem may be caused by cracks in the siding.
If not, it indicates that the top coat of paint has shrunk and pulled away from
the undercoat. This condition usually occurs only on very old painted surfaces.
Solution: Scrape or sand the surface until you reach stable paint or
wood. Hose down well. A primer may be necessary before you paint - this depends
on the paint you select - check the label.
Wood Staining - is due to rust from
(a) nailheads or (b) sap bleeding from a knot hole.
Solution: (a) Remove rust from nailheads by sanding. Countersink
nailheads and prime with a metal primer. Cover with wood putty - sand. (b)
Prime knot holes and sap streaks with shellac. In either case cover with two
coats of paint.
Buy enough paint
to complete the job - see Estimating.
If you are changing colors, plan on two coats.
Painting on
hot moist surfaces creates and causes most paint failures. The best rule when
painting outdoors is to follow the sun. Paint the shady side of the house
first. Then, as the sun moves away from each side, paint it. Don't paint in
the sun.
Before you move to the next side, check for "skips" (areas you may have
missed) and go over them.
Moisture will affect an oil-base paint. If you are using one, wait until
the morning dew has evaporated before you start. Moisture from dew will not
affect latex paint, so get started early. Wait 24 hours after a rainfall before
you paint with an oil-base paint.
To prevent future rusting and rust stains when using latex, touch up all
exposed nailheads and metal with a primer.
Paint should be
thoroughly mixed. Even if your dealer has mechanically mixed it, check it again
by pouring half into another can. Mix both halves with a wooden stirrer until
all pigment is blended, then check it again by pouring back and forth.
Protect your grass, shrubs and plants - cover with a drop cloth.
Start at the top of the house using a 3 1/2" to 4" brush with 4" bristles.
Immerse the brush bristles in the paint to cover 1/3 of the bristle length. To
prevent dripping, tap the brush before removing from the can.
If you have to stop before the job is completed, paint across to the corner
of one board. This will ensure more even results.
For a neat professional look, use house paint on the edge of the trim where
it meets the siding.
Other Pointers
Porch Floor - Concrete surfaces absorb a lot of paint. Make the job easier by using a roller with an extension handle. First, use a 4" brush and paint a border around the floor where it meets the walls. Then use your roller spreading the paint to meet the border. Do a small section at a time (about 2' x 3') and don't try to stretch the paint too far.
Porch Steps - Make this a two day job. Paint alternate steps - both treads and risers, so that you can walk on the dry ones. When they are dry - complete the job. Paint railings last.
Trim - Do window crossbars first with a 1 1/2" tapered sash brush - then paint the flat surfaces. A neat professional job is achieved if the edges of the trim (where it meets the siding) are painted with the house paint.
Areas to investigate and repair if necessary
Estimating - how much paint is needed for house exterior? Follow these easy steps.
| When They Stick | Sliding Doors |
| Swinging Doors |
When They Stick - Check the hinge
screws on the door first, then the hinge screws on the jamb (frame). If they
are loose, the door will sag just enough to rub against the frame causing it
to bind and stick when closed. If the hinge screws are loose - open the door
as far as it can be opened - then tighten all of the screws. If you can't
tighten the screws because the holes have become enlarged - remove the screws
- then pack the enlarged holes with wooden toothpicks or match sticks that
have been dipped in glue - so that together they form a flush surface. Before
you replace the screws, be certain that the glue has set thoroughly. Tighten
the screws securely.
If the door still sticks after the screws are tightened then the problem
can be corrected by adjusting one of the hinges. To determine which one, first
determine where the door binds. Close the door and slip a piece of paper
between the door and the jamb - slide the paper around the edge. If it binds
at the top corner, the bottom hinge needs adjustment; if it binds near the
bottom corner, the top hinge requires the adjustment. To do this open the door
to a 90 degree angle. Prop the door open, placing magazines and/or books under
and around it. Next remove the screws that hold the hinge leaf in place. Cut
a piece of cardboard, the same size as the hinge leaf and place it behind the
hinge leaf. Reposition the hinge leaf with the cardboard shim in place -
replace and tighten the screws. Try the door again. If the problem is only
partially corrected, try another thickness of cardboard behind the first shim.
Sliding Doors - If it sticks in the track, open the door fully, clean the track along the floor, lubricate the sides and the bottom of the track with a silicone lubricating compound.
Swinging Doors - Dust is the culprit if your swinging door sticks. The spring device in the floor is jammed. Unscrew the places under the bottom hinge - vacuum carefully. If you find any rust, scrape it off, vacuum again. Then spray the spring and the pivot with a silicone lubricating compound. Re-screw the plates.
Holes or Tears - This works well if you have matching leftover wallpaper and the design is an overall or large pattern. Remove the torn area and surrounding paper following the design - the more uneven the design the less the patch will be noticed. Use a sharp single edge razor blade to do it. Cut a matching design patch from the leftover paper - cover the back with a thin coat of wallpaper paste - apply patch to wall fitting it carefully. Use a damp cloth to smooth the area down.
Seams Openings - Fill a plastic squeeze bottle with wallpaper paste. The spout on the bottle will fit under the edge of the wallpaper seam. One squirt and a little pressure on the spot will eliminate the problem. Wipe any excess with a damp cloth if it oozes out when pressure is applied.
Cleaning
- Most wallpapers are washable, but if yours is not, lightly soiled areas can
be cleaned using a borax powder. Wipe it on with a clean cloth (a dry one)
then remove the powder with another clean dry cloth.
A slice of rye bread will work as well. Just rub it on the lightly soiled
spot. Other breads won't do - it's the gluten in the rye that does the trick.